Is Tallinn Old Town The Most Beautiful In Europe?
I was in Tallinn couple of weeks ago during the pandemic. I expected it to be a bit cultural with some Russian and Nordic influence and relatively something to see in 24 hours. Well, I stayed 5 days and it was stunning. This is why.
No doubts Tallinn is Estonia’s cultural hub. Gorgeous cobblestone streets, medieval churches, well preserved houses, warehouses, barns and countless details worth discovering.
But the big question. How long to stay here? I read that 24 hours is enough but I stayed for more than 120 hours. Why? Well, I didn’t just want to take photos but also enjoyed different corners of the city. Don’t blame me for that 😉
Where To Stay?
Up to your itinerary and plans. We stayed at the Hotel Telegraaf and it was super well located and you might already know that I’m a Marriott guy.
We got upgraded to the 1 Bedroom Suite, the 2nd best room after the Presidential Suite. Oh yes, this was a strong start.
From The Airport
Get a Bolt. You’ll pay €5 or €6 to the Old Town. Remember that Estonia is the house of Bolt!
Coffee First
There are coffee shops everywhere. I’ll share these 3.
1. Väike Lisanna. Amazing coffee shop with a Scandinavian vibe, candles and great deco. Tons of alternative milk for vegetarians or vegans. I had many coffees here but what I loved the most was the berries & nuts bowl for breakfast!
2. Suur Lisanna. Same owner but smaller coffee shop. You have to be lucky to get a table but you can do take away in any case. My favourite here was the flat white with Valio oat milk. Even better than Oatly!
3. Toormoor. This is like having coffee in an art exhibition gallery. The coffee was not as good as Lisanna but they had some amazing meals. We tried some cabbage bread with local hummus and it was super tasty and creative. In fact, we had never tried cabbage bread!
Getting Lost
Getting lost in the alleys of Tallinn is a great idea. There are passages everywhere. One particularly interesting is St. Catherine’s Passage. It was built by monks back in the 13th century.
Nowadays, the medieval spark is kept and the atmosphere with artisans and exhibitions gave a little modern look while still preserving the ambiance.
See Tallinn From The Top
There’s a place called Kohtuotsa in the northern side of Toompea hill. This is the viewing platform where you can see the red roofs and towers of the Old Town. Moreover, if you have good eyes, you can see in the background the Gulf of Finland and the port.
Amazing views are guaranteed here but keep in mind it can be a bit crowded. I was lucky as during the pandemic less people were around.
I’m Tired… Any Good Food Here?
The Old Town has plenty of spots to go. I want to share my best 2.
1. Olde Hansa. Perhaps the most authentic medieval dining experience. Waiters and waitresses are dressed in the traditional costumes as if it was 700 years ago and they have dishes with centuries of history. All beers are handcrafted according to medieval recipes and they are served in the old traditional style ceramic jar. The place is full of candles, wooden benches/tables and it really gives you that medieval vibe. I personally loved the mushroom soup and the golden lentil pot.
2. Vegan Restoran V. This is the first vegan restaurant in Tallinn and Estonia. They opened 6 years ago. It’s small but super cosy. Everything is free from dairy, egg and meat. Yes, vegan! I tried the spicy oven-baked seitan tacos with “cheese” and guacamole. Kristina tasted some incredible beetroot ravioli with cashew cheese and basil pesto as starter and then some vegan “fish and chips” (breaded tofish, deep-fried potato, tartar sauce, green pea and mash) as main course.
Still Hungry… Desserts?
You know, at the end of the Soviet era, shops were empty and desserts were a luxury thing. Luckily, things have evolved. I personally loved the following 2 places.
1. Chocolala. Undoubtedly the best luxury Estonian handmade chocolate. They have a wide range of fresh assorted chocolates, bars and truffles. Every year, they win awards. They even offer you to taste some before buying.
2. Cortile. Authentic Italian ice cream. The place is a hidden gem in one of the many passages that they have when descending from Toompea hill to the Old Town. My favourite flavour was Gianduja chocolate!
Final Thoughts
It’s true that Tallinn is relatively small for being a capital city. However, there’s so many places to see such as the Pikk Hermann Tower, Toompea Castle, Town Hall Square, Alexander Nevsky Cathedral, Šnelli park and Rocca Estonian Open-Air Museum.
But there’s a lot of other places to discover because how can you discover the city if you don’t allow yourself to get lost a bit? Places that Google doesn’t necessarily tell you and then you find them and say “wow”.
And places to enjoy a good coffee, meal, handcrafted beer or a local schnapps.
For me it was love at first sight. I enjoyed very much every day here. Coming without plan, sometimes it turns out to be the best plan.
